Triglav – German route IV/AD

FROM 250€ / PERSON

Trip summary

Your Adventure at a Glance

Time
5 - 8h
Grade
AD +, IV
Height
1000m
Overall difficulty - Beginner

Price

250€ per person, Private 450€

Technical level

Good mountaineering skills or basic climbing skills required

Fitness level

Good physical condition reccomended (500 vertical meters per hour)
Trip description

Everything you need to know

German Route was the first route in the Triglan north face. The first ascent was made in 1906. And since there has been many variations. The most popular is the 1926 route made by Klement Jug and his rope-mates. We will follow their footsteps up this moderately difficult pillar.

”The German Rib is a pillar-like formation, along which the German route runs. Picking out best passages, climb on solid rock the whole length of the rib as far as the German Tower, with the visitors book.” (Mihelič, 2014, p.141)

After gaining the plateau we follow a gully after we decide where to continue. If we have much more to give we traverse to the right and follow the Arete of the German pillar, crossing the famous ”Luska” – flake pitch and finishing at the Kugy ledge.

If we decide that we enjoyed the climb enough we will continue towards ”Zimmer-Jahn” exit, where we make one last effort to climb out of ”The Wall” and follow easier ground to the top.

After that we descend via ”Prag” route down to the car. Or if you decide to stay at Kredarica hut and enjoy the night in the highest hut in the Julian Alps.

If you want to find more information on other routes check this link.

itinerary

Day by Day

Approach (1 – 1.5h)

  • Start from Aljaž Lodge in Vrata Valley (1015 m).
  • Follow the Prag trail for about 1 – 1.5 hours.
  • Reach the base of the North Face and find the start of the German Route.

 

Climbing (5 – 8h)

  • The first section is a traverse that is the same as in Slovene route. It works as a test to see how the rest of the route will go.
  • The next part is characterized by climbing or scrambling up slabs and corners, with difficulties up to III+.
  • We pass some iconic sections, like Grad (Castle).
  • Middle part follows a snow gully that in the late part of the season can be dry.
  • The upper section normally leads to the short german route variation,which takes us through a crux of the route that i the guidebook goes at IV-. It is a zig-zag pitch on which the first and last bit are the hardest. After the last mantle on the ledge we continue without difficulties to the old Triglav glacier plateau.
  • If you decide prior and your fitness level and skill level are up to par, we will follow the wide arete of the so called Long German route that allows you to finish on the top of Triglav.

 

Descent (2 – 3h)

  • Follow the marked trail towards Kredarica Hut (2515 m).
  • From Kredarica, descend via the Tominšek or Prag route back to Vrata Valley.
Additional information

Included in price

  • Full day guiding fee

Not included

  • Parking fee
  • Climb to the top of Triglav

What to bring to the tour

  • Backpack
  • Helmet
  • Harness
  • Mountain boots
  • Crampons (depending on the conditons)

Requirements

Disclaimer

Why Climb with GripGuides?

The Slovene Route may be the easiest way up the North Face, but it is still serious alpine terrain with route-finding challenges and potential rockfall. GripGuides’ experienced professionals will ensure your climb is safe, efficient, and enjoyable, allowing you to focus on the experience while we handle the navigation and technical aspects.

Join us for an unforgettable ascent!

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