German Route was the first route in the Triglan north face. The first ascent was made in 1906. And since there has been many variations. The most popular is the 1926 route made by Klement Jug and his rope-mates. We will follow their footsteps up this moderately difficult pillar.
”The German Rib is a pillar-like formation, along which the German route runs. Picking out best passages, climb on solid rock the whole length of the rib as far as the German Tower, with the visitors book.” (Mihelič, 2014, p.141)
After gaining the plateau we follow a gully after we decide where to continue. If we have much more to give we traverse to the right and follow the Arete of the German pillar, crossing the famous ”Luska” – flake pitch and finishing at the Kugy ledge.
If we decide that we enjoyed the climb enough we will continue towards ”Zimmer-Jahn” exit, where we make one last effort to climb out of ”The Wall” and follow easier ground to the top.
After that we descend via ”Prag” route down to the car. Or if you decide to stay at Kredarica hut and enjoy the night in the highest hut in the Julian Alps.
If you want to find more information on other routes check this link.
Approach (1 – 1.5h)
Climbing (5 – 8h)
Descent (2 – 3h)
Why Climb with GripGuides?
The Slovene Route may be the easiest way up the North Face, but it is still serious alpine terrain with route-finding challenges and potential rockfall. GripGuides’ experienced professionals will ensure your climb is safe, efficient, and enjoyable, allowing you to focus on the experience while we handle the navigation and technical aspects.
Join us for an unforgettable ascent!