Čopov Steber is the most iconic and historically significant climbing route on the north face of Triglav, Slovenia’s highest peak. The route follows a prominent pillar in the central part of the Triglav North Face (Triglavska stena) and was first ascended in the aftermath of World War II by legendary Slovenian climbers Joža Čop and Pavla Jesih.
The ascent, completed in 1945, was a remarkable feat of endurance, skill, and determination. Čop and Jesih spent seven days on the face, using poor equipment they faced difficult sections and technical difficulties. In a dramatic turn of events, Joža Čop had to solo the upper part of the route to reach the top and organize a rescue for Pavla Jesih, who was unable to continue. His selfless act and incredible climbing ability ensured that they both made it out alive.
Today, Čopov Steber remains a classic and challenging alpine climb, drawing experienced climbers who seek to follow in the footsteps of these pioneers. The route is a testament to the spirit of early Slovenian alpinism and the legendary determination of Joža Čop.
Approach (1-1.5 hours)
Climbing the Pillar (8-10 hours)
Key Sections:
Descent (3 hours)
Čop pillar is a serious alpine route that requires good technique and climbing knowledge and experienc with climbing on steep limestone with sometimes poor rock quality.
Best time is probably end of June and July.
